What’s this all about you may ask yourself? As a child, living in Norfolk I frequently walked sections of the Peddars Way, a famous Roman or perhaps pre-Roman road which runs from Holme-next-the-Sea, through my childhood home village of Little Massingham and onto Knettishall Heath, Suffolk. However, I had always been told it actually went all the way to Colchester in Essex.
In my youth I quite often walked it, but there were occasions when it was because I was in some sort of trouble with my parents. 
I would usually be found escaping - with my dog and small suitcase - along this route, and when I was challenged, I’d climb into my father's car and be driven home. I think there was a strong element of Dick Whittington about me as I knew that if I walked for long enough, I would get to London.
Seventy years on and having moved to Colchester, I was still fixated by this road and realised time was running out if I wanted to finally try to prove that the Peddars Way really did go all the way to the ancient Roman capital of England.
In September 2019, I made a decision. The back story here is that the church of St Andrew, which stands in the village of Little Massingham (the village where I was born and grew up) had been victim of three separate attacks to the lead roof where thieves had ripped off the lead to sell for scrap. We had all been dismayed to hear that to restore the roof would cost over £150,000.
This fundraising challenge would be an almost impossible to pull off for a tiny parish church with a very small congregation. I decided I had to do something about it.
The first people I told of my secret plan were my friends Rina and John Adams. Once I’d told them, I was committed, I knew there was no backing out. My plan was to walk the length of Peddars Way (plus the bit from Colchester in Essex) nearly 90 miles end to end! Rina thought for a moment and said she would join me, adding she could walk no more than seven miles in a day.
Having been given a Fitbit tracker for a Birthday present a year or so before, I was managing about 3000 steps per day, and I was lucky if I could walk a mile and then only with the aid of a stick!
Training begins
We decided we would begin the walk towards Norfolk in late April 2020. To start with, we met up weekly to walk a couple of miles, building our training programme up slowly. We also met up with Norma, another friend and gradually we started walking everyday all through the winter whatever the weather.
In March we felt we were almost ready to start and then Covid took hold. 
We were still training together the week before lockdown! Rina and I were devastated that we could no longer make this journey. Neither of us had anyone to train with - so we walked alone for the one hour a day we were allowed out. This lone walking seemed to go on for months, but in my case, apart from talking to my cat Minnie, it was my way of keeping up my spirits!
The restrictions were finally lifted and Rina and I started to walk together again. We made the decision that the walk was back on and we set a date in September.
Fundraising
During lockdown I had planned a media campaign - I was determined to try to highlight the walk and the plight of this country church having the lead stolen from it. I hoped that if there was good coverage it might generate some much-needed donations. I contacted many of the local news outlets including BBC radio, ITV Anglia, East Anglian Daily Times, Eastern Daily Press and several of the smaller local newspapers and waited.
To my relief the idea struck a chord with them and our story was being picked up by several outlets. We were out training one day, about a week before the start of the walk and ITV Anglia News video journalist came to film us on a preparation walk near to Colchester. Friends and Family were excited to see it reported – and it’s still available online to watch here.
Day 1 - The walk began during an Indian summer heat wave
On Tuesday morning, at 10:30am on 22nd September we left Balkerne Gate with Sir Bob Russell, High Steward of Colchester and several other people who joined us for the first six miles. 
Their finishing point was Nayland, the pretty village which nestles just over the Suffolk border. It turned out to be a very hot day reaching 29°C. Just along from Horkesley Heath, we walked along our first known Roman road. When we eventually arrived in Nayland we stopped at the Anchor Pub which was busily serving food to a huge number of people. Fortunately, I had previously booked a table for six. It was to be the last day we ate out - after that it was to be picnics courtesy of Paul who was driving with us in a backup car.
After lunch, and a bit of impromptu fund raising in the pub, we had some very hot and steep climbs as we made our way to Stoke by Nayland. We soldiered on, walking past a ‘Road Closed’ sign and having checked we knew we could make it through.
We reached Polstead later on that hot day. It is another beautiful village but I shall remember it for the steep hills and as a place where I glugged huge quantities of cool water!
Day 2 – Cattle crossing
The second day was cooler, but after a few short miles, I felt a problem arising with my right foot. Prior to the walk, people had joked about blisters, but I dismissed these worries having had no problems at all through our training walks. But there was no mistake, I was in real pain as I stood on the road, my right shoe off, balancing myself using one of my poles. Rina had inspected my foot - yes I had the beginnings of a major blister problem. By the end of that day, I was limping badly and the blister had multiplied into at least three!
There was one thing that had always rather worried me about this walk - cattle! Now you might ask 'why would a farmer's daughter be worried about cows?' Well, put it this way, there is an awful lot of tonnage when it comes to these animals and I didn’t fancy being squashed in a scrum.
I had already scanned satellite images on Google maps to try to ensure our route wouldn’t need to cross any grazing areas. My heart sank when I spied - as it turned out - the only field of cattle we came across. In the distance, a field of cows, calves and bullocks! Paul, the driver of our backup car and his companion Jean were waiting for us as we neared the field gate. I didn’t hang around and crossed the field in next to no time, as the beasts munched their way slowly towards us.
Day 3 – Photoshoot in Woolpit and sheepskin slippers
At the start of day three I was up early. Overnight I'd had an idea that I should try to cut the wool from my sheepskin slippers and stuff it inside my socks to help soften the pounding on my poor foot. It was also decided by the 'backup car committee' that I should try to take the weight off my right foot and use a walking pole in my left hand in an attempt to try to distribute the weight onto my left leg. We were walking on a long stretch of Roman road, which on the map showed further along it continued over fields. According to our OS map, we would have to take a three-sided road diversion. We had intended to try to continue along the field section of the Roman Road but having checked it out beforehand we had to abandon that idea when we found that a garden and a thick hedge protruded over the track. We made the detour and were soon back on the other end of the ancient route. By the end of the day I was now limping on my left foot where blisters had formed!
We took our rest in some beautiful villages, like Chelsworth, and Bildeston and on benches in lovely churchyards, such as Rattlesden and Norton.
While on route between Rattlesden and Woolpit, I’d had a phone call from a photographer who worked for the East Anglian Daily Times, she wanted to meet us and take some photos. We decided the best place to meet would be in Woolpit - if we could be there in time. Woolpit is another lovely large village with a beautiful church. It was the village we planned to meet our backup car and have lunch. 
Quite by accident we bumped into the photographer as we headed for the main street.
Soon she was putting us through our paces, walking up and down, looking at maps and walking by attractive displays of flowers and plants. 
You name it we did it, while she snapped us from all angles. After lunch we set off to find our way across the A14. When I’d been researching and studying maps about Peddars Way, there were hints that the road continued from Woolpit via White Elm Road this section appeared to stop short of the A14 crossing. The Rev H Coppinger Hill who had written about this Suffolk section of the road had noted on a hand drawn map that it crossed over what is now the A14 at this point and would emerge near the Fox and Goose Cottages - presumably this was a pub at one time.
The night before we actually had to walk it, Paul checked it out and found it was still navigable by walking through a small wood which brought us out almost onto the bridge. This was a real bonus as we didn’t need to take the long detour along a busy fast road.
Once over the A14 and at the Fox and Goose Cottages, we had a rather nasty stretch of busy road until we reached the railway bridge and we were able to safely walk along a footpath and eventually cross a series of fields as we headed in the direction of Norton and Stowlangtoft.
The field had already been ploughed and cultivated and as we dithered as to which way to go, Rina walked off towards the farm to ask if they could point out the route. As she returned my phone rang again. This time it was the reporter from the East Anglian Daily Times. I answered it as Rina set off across the field, I followed as the reporter asked questions. Her first was, ‘where are you now’? I replied. ‘I not far from Norton, heading to Stowlangtoft and I’m crossing a field’. And so the questions continued. Rina was totally unaware that I was being interviewed and being asked questions like... ‘Would you recommend that all older people take up walking and do something like this?’ I hoped that I was giving sensible answers but in between the answers I was saying things like, ‘This field is not too bad underfoot.’ ‘I’m about halfway across now.’ ‘Almost at the other side.’ All things that she didn’t need to know but were important to me!
At this point we had deviated from Coppinger Hill’s research, simply because to follow his route meant we would be walking on some very dangerous roads or unnavigable areas. We had already had a taste of walking a short stretch of the busy road and it wasn’t much fun. We would still cross sections of Peddars Way and we were still heading north west but the main thing we needed to be was safe.
Day 4 – 50mph winds and rain
Friday 25th September - a day and date I will always remember. A horrible day, we were late arriving at Stowlangtoft because of road diversions. When we got out of the car we climbed into our waterproofs and high-vis jackets and donned the final layer - a yellow plastic cape which went over our rucksacks. 
As we walked out of the Stowlangtoft village the wind picked up. It wasn’t long before a car drew up, the driver was a local Roman road enthusiast who had already contacted me via my website. Having found us he drove off only to return as a passenger in another car. He got out of the car, suitability clad with stick and wet weather gear. 
‘You are going the wrong way’, he said as he tried to turn us from our route. I stood my ground. ‘No we aren’t, I know we aren’t on Peddars Way but we are going the safest route.’ And so we all three walked on. As we trudged on towards Bardwell our new companion identified where Peddars Way crossed.
By now the wind was so strong we could only put one foot in front of another, but at times we didn’t seem to be getting very far. The rain stung my face and I tried to look on the positive side that it would give me a lovely complexion! That’s what my mother would have told me!
It was all quite horrible. As we came into Bardwell, our trusty car and driver was waiting for us. We said farewell to the Roman road enthusiast and we shed some of our very wet waterproofs and scrambled into the car.
As we munched our lunch, Rina said to me. ‘We can’t go on, we will have to wait until it stops.’ We soon learnt that it wasn’t going to stop until 10.00 pm that night. It was only then that I said, ‘We have to go on otherwise we will never catch up and we have to walk the first of our thirteen plus miles tomorrow.’ There was nothing for it, we got out of the car, donned our very wet gear again and looked into the north wind and walked!
We met Paul, Jean and the car again in a wooded area at the start of the Icknield Way, this last section would take us to Knettishall Heath. 
We set off down this wet and muddy track with the trees bending and swaying above us. 
Later we had to negotiate a fallen tree by fighting our way through the undergrowth. My yellow cape snagged on every twig, branch and obstacle. Finally we made it out of the woods and eventually to the car park at Knettishall Heath!
Day 5 – Crossing the A11
Rina’s daughter was joining us today. The pair of them set off at a normal pace with me bringing up the rear and dragging my sore feet along.
It wasn’t long before I lost them totally until I spotted the orange collection box strapped to Rina’s knapsack. The first sections of paths were wet and overgrown and it was slow going. We knew we were to meet the car near some public toilets. Unfortunately, I hadn’t understood these toilets were near to the A11. I think it was probably my optimism when we came across some log cabins and a sign indicated there was a shop and toilets. I looked at my online maps and just assumed that we were further along than I expected. We must’ve walked at least a quarter of a mile out of our way but we did find a very nice shop, restaurant and a lovely toilet! But there was no sign of the backup car or its occupants.
After a phone call to Paul, the realisation set in that we were a long way from arriving at the A11. Back on track and with a heavy heart and even heavier feet we set off towards the A11! We could hear the road a long way before we saw it, in fact I didn’t see it until I was almost out of the undergrowth.
Rina had already crossed to the central reservation. Cars were constantly whizzing by. Her daughter was waiting for me. ‘Can you run?’, she asked. I took one look at the cars and decided there was no way I would run. If I tripped, these cars couldn't stop.
We waited, and waited. Eventually there was a long enough gap for us to hurry across. I could see Paul on the other side waiting for Rina to cross. There was another gap in the traffic and we made it across. Later Rina told me a car had the audacity to pip her. Considering we were on a road which was 2000 years old or older I think the driver had a real cheek!
Shortly after the A11 crossing we made it over an unmanned and gated railway crossing without a train in sight.
The ground was easier at this point for those with no blisters. We were hours behind schedule eventually making it to our very late lunchtime rendezvous.
The next stage was a good road and although it was still raining we plodded on, making good time. As we were nearing the diversion around the military area where Peddars Way once passed through, we saw my sister and brother-in-law in the distance.
They had expected to have met up with us much earlier. My heart sank when they told us they had already been walking for well over two and half hours! As the day wore on, I fell way behind everyone else. I decided I might as well take my time and eventually I made it to the finish line just outside the village of Little Cressingham!
Day 6 – Road to Castle Acre
Sunday Morning – It was time to do some more radio interviews! I’d already spoken to BBC Suffolk at just after 6.30 am. The week before, when I had spoken to them and BBC Norfolk, they had wanted to talk to me again for a progress update.
We arrived at Little Cressingham very early so that I was ready to be interviewed by BBC Norfolk. All phones in the car, apart from mine were turned off. The call came through shortly after 9.40am. Another good interview (so I am told) explaining why we were walking to raised funds for the Church. Unfortunately, the man interviewing me confused the Church with Holme Church, not St. Andrews in Little Massingham, but we soon clarified that. As soon as the interview was over, we were ready to start our next thirteen mile plus journey to Castle Acre.
Today was to be a day of quite a lot of road walking. Rina and I were being joined again by her daughter, my brother in law, and his sister, Anna. She was going to walk with us for about three miles before she would return to her car.
It wasn’t long before two bicycles appeared on the scene; they only paused for a short time before speeding off again. It was my son and my granddaughter. They had brought their bikes up on the back of the car and parked in Castle Acre, and then cycled 11 miles down to meet us. They continued on to our morning starting point back in Little Cressingham, before returning to join us and walked the rest of the distance pushing their bikes all the way back to Castle Acre. Anna had already left us to return to Little Cressingham, when the two cyclists arrived. All the way through our numbers were well organised to the end, never having more than six people in our group.
At North Pickenham we should have left the road and walked towards water meadows - potentially through a field of cows, but the ford and entire area was flooded, so we continued on to the village by road. We stopped for lunch near the village sign before setting off again.
The track we encountered wasn’t too bad but as we got closer to the A47 near Swaffham we had to negotiate another fallen tree. I didn’t notice how well the two bicycles managed it, but they had already done it while on the way down to join us.
The A47 was another nasty road to cross, no central reservation so we had to have a good gap in the traffic. Eventually the cars stopped and the whole group crossed at the same time. As we neared Castle Acre the usual Peddars Way route was not open to us. Paul had found we would not be able to make it through the ford due to all the water. 
We made our approach along the lower roads and made the last climb up the hill and through the ancient Bailey Gate where everyone including car drivers were waiting for us!
We made our approach along the lower roads and made the last climb up the hill and through the ancient Bailey Gate where everyone including car drivers were waiting for us!
Day 7 – Bishop’s Blessing
Monday 28th September - today we were planning to walk from Castle Acre to Anmer Minque, with a short, planned detour to Little Massingham Church.
Previously I had contacted the Bishop of Lynn’s PA, but at the time she thought it highly unlikely that the Bishop would be able to meet us when we departed from the village, due to his tight schedule. We were already quite a distance from Castle Acre when my mobile phone rang again. I was surprised to hear that it was the Bishop on the other end of the line. ‘Rosemary, where are you’, he asked, before continuing. ‘I’m at the Bailey Gate in my cassock waiting to give you a blessing...!’
After apologising and explaining I wasn’t expecting to see him, I told him I’d love a blessing. It was arranged that he would meet us at Little Massingham Church.
When Peddars Way left the tarmac road a mile or so outside Great Massingham, we were joined by of my other sister.
It wasn’t long before we saw hedges full of very ripe and delicious blackberries. Rina phoned Paul saying if they picked some as they would be ideal to make a pudding to go along with her scrumped apples. Rina’s apple scrumping was beginning to be a feature of this walk as she seemed to find them in the most unlikely places.
Eventually we made it to Little Massingham, only to find we had arrived ahead of the parish representatives. The day was warmer than the previous few days and we were able to sit and enjoy the sunshine on the bench outside the church. 
The Bishop arrived and gave us a wonderful and very moving blessing as we stood amongst my family graves. Shortly afterwards we were taken back to Peddars Way where my two sisters and a friend walked with us to Harpley Dams.
Having had a good lunch we set off again towards Anmer Minque and the Bronze Age barrows.
Day 8 – The final trek!
As the last day dawned, I soaked my feet in a bowl of warm water to remove the old blister dressings. As soon as my feet were dry, Rina carefully applied new dressings - a welcome relief! Before leaving the Weasenham cottage where we were staying for the latter part of our walk, Paul had received a tip-off that ITV Anglia news were trailing us in their early news reports.
We made it to Fring where the car was waiting for us for another mid-morning tea break. We had a very steep climb out of Fring, but underfoot was really 'good going' as all the vehicles and bicycles had been banned along this section. When we reached the top there were a series of benches with interesting inscriptions - but we didn’t stop; we knew we had to cover as much ground as we could.
The next call was from ITV Anglia, this time I was much quicker pulling out the phone. They explained that they didn’t have a cameraman available to come out, but they would like a selection of photos which would reflect some of our journey and they needed some photos of us arriving at our destination.
At some point we crossed a track which had once been a railway line, it was possibly the old line which had run between Hunstanton and Wells. Shortly after that we spotted in the distance a lone figure, we speculated if it was Paul, but we decided he would have made extremely good time if he had walked from Ringstead where we were headed. As we got closer we realised it was Anna who had walked with us for three miles from Little Cressingham. She slowed her pace to my crawl and continued with us the rest of the way to Ringstead and our lunchtime stop.
We could feel the end was close and after a very short lunch break we set off on the final section determined we would make it in good time to the beach at Holme. As we crossed the final main road we spied Paul, Jean and the car on a grass verge. The occupants were fast asleep! Having woken them we almost broke into a run as we walked the final stretch to the car park.
We were early and I turned to Rina saying, 'We can’t finish yet because my sisters will never forgive me!'. As it turned out perhaps we should have gone for it and not told them and re-enacted it later for their benefit.
Paul’s phone had barely any mobile coverage with only one bar showing. After each agonising attempt to send the photos to Anglia TV, the email failed to send! I was talking on my phone to someone at Anglia and finally the photos got through in time for the 6 o’clock news!
Shortly after another interview with BBC Essex, and I was finally able to get around to drinking it all in - a much needed glass of champagne, some lovely flowers, celebratory food and the fact we’d done it!
A thank you and charity update
We have been very fortunate to have had such a fantastic media response. We were not in the Capt. Tom Moore league, but as a friend said, 'a church roof isn’t very cuddly' and given the plight of the country with Covid-19 we have something to be proud of!
Overall we featured twice on ITV Anglia news and several times in radio broadcasts for BBC Norfolk, Suffolk and Essex. We have been reported in newspapers in Essex, Suffolk and Norfolk, our Colchester MP gave me a tweet and we had a Facebook mention from the Secretary of State for Health, Matt Hancock as we marched through and out of his constituency.
My ‘secret plan’ (not quite so secret now) has always been about the charities we were raising money for. To date Rina has raised over £1000 for her local charities. Based on this walk, others have been inspired to set up a new charity 'Friends of St. Andrew’s Church Little Massingham' (see www.fosalm.org) to help keep the fund raising going over the next few years. To date I have managed to beat my initial target of £5000 and have raised over £9716.17 so far. I’d like to thank everyone who has supported us on our endeavour (especially to Paul and Jean for driving us and keeping our spirits up and Sonja who came to look after Minnie and my house) and to all of those who very kindly donated so much.
This walk was not just a physical journey of almost 90 miles, through blazing sun, rain and wind, it has been a journey of discovery and strength and fight back to fitness. Two years ago I would have never believed that I would be able to walk such distances. I think I can say I enjoyed every single second of it!
If you’d like to donate to the new Friends of St Andrew’s Church Little Massingham charity see link below.
Please contact: fosalm.org
The image below gives details of the route we took. Click on the image below to enlarge it.
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